How permanent lights mount on tile, stucco, fascia and gutters

How are permanent lights mounted?

Almost every permanent system attaches in one of two ways.

• Track or channel. A continuous strip, usually aluminum, is fastened along the roofline and the lights sit inside it. The track hides the wire and gives a straight line. JellyFish, for example, describes its track as color matched to the home.
• Clips. Each light or short section is held by its own clip. Govee's installation guide (opens in a new tab) calls for screw clips every 12 to 18 inches, with adhesive pads included.

Fasteners are either mechanical (screws into wood or anchors into masonry) or adhesive. Mechanical fasteners hold best over years of heat and wind. Adhesive avoids holes but depends on a clean, dry, sound surface and on how that adhesive handles summer heat.

The surface matters as much as the method. The sections below cover the surfaces we see most often in the Valley.

Is wood fascia the easiest surface?

Usually, yes. A painted wood fascia board takes screws well, gives a straight line to follow and is easy to reach from a ladder. Track mounted to fascia can be matched to the trim color so it disappears by day.

• Check for soft or rotted spots first, especially at corners and under valleys where water runs. Screws won't hold in damaged wood.
• Ask whether the track sits on the face of the fascia or tucked under the drip edge. It changes how visible it is from the street.
• If the fascia is due for paint, paint first. Track is much harder to paint around later.

Can permanent lights go on a tile roof?

Yes, but the lights should not be fastened through the tile. Concrete and clay tile are brittle, and a hole in tile is a path for water into the underlayment.

• Mount to the fascia below the tile. On most tile roofs there is a fascia board or stucco band under the first row of tile. That is usually the best place for track.
• Avoid walking on tile. Tile can crack under foot. A careful installer works from ladders at the eave instead of from the roof.
• Watch the gap at the tile edge. The curved tile edge leaves gaps, often closed with a bird stop. Lights and wires should not block drainage or pry the tile up.

Can permanent lights mount to stucco?

Yes, with more care than wood. Many Valley homes have stucco-wrapped eaves or a stucco band where wood fascia would be.

• Screws into stucco need anchors rated for masonry, and every hole needs exterior sealant. Stucco is a weather barrier, and an unsealed hole lets water behind it.
• Drilling too close to an edge or a hairline crack can chip or spread it. Placement matters.
• Adhesive on stucco is a weaker option. Stucco is textured and dusty, and that makes it hard for adhesive to grip for years.
• Sometimes the better choice is to mount to the roof edge or a wood surface nearby rather than the stucco face. A good installer will show you the options.

Should lights be mounted on the gutter?

Gutter mounting is common for seasonal clip-on lights, and it can work for some permanent setups. There are trade-offs.

• Gutters move. They flex with heat, ladders and debris loads. Over years, that movement can loosen clips or shift the line.
• Gutters get cleaned. Lights on the lip can get knocked or covered during cleaning. Tell whoever cleans your gutters that the lights are there.
• Screws in a gutter can leak. Fasteners through the bottom or back of a gutter can let water drip where you don't want it.
• The gutter may hide the fascia. On some homes the gutter covers most of the fascia, so track goes on the gutter face, under the gutter, or on the roof edge. Each has a different look from the street.

What changes on a two-story home?

Two-story homes are very doable. They take more planning, equipment and time.

• Access. Second-story eaves need longer ladders with standoffs, or a lift. Ask how the installer plans to reach the high runs safely.
• More feet, more runs. Upper and lower rooflines often become separate runs. Each run needs power and data, which can mean more than one controller. JellyFish, for example, says in its cost blog (opens in a new tab) that one controller can power 263 feet.
• Wire routing. Getting the line from the upper eave to the lower one, or to the controller, should be planned so wire isn't stapled down a wall in plain view.
• Gables and peaks. Steep rakes and peaks take more cuts and corners, and they're where sloppy work shows most.

Why does an installer need to measure first?

A real quote starts with a measure, either on site or from photos and satellite imagery. The measure answers questions that change the price and the plan.

1. 1Linear feetHow many feet of roofline you want lit. This drives material cost and how many controllers or kits you need.
2. 2SurfacesWood fascia, stucco, tile edge, gutter. Each takes different hardware and time.
3. 3Heights and accessSingle-story eaves, second-story eaves, and anything over a slope, pool or landscaping.
4. 4Power and controller locationWhere the nearest suitable outlet is, where the controller can live, and how the wire gets there.
5. 5Breaks in the lineCorners, peaks, gaps over garages and places where the run has to jump. These affect both look and labor.

What should you ask an installer about mounting?

1. What exactly will the lights attach to on my house, and with what fasteners?
2. Will anything go through my roof covering or tile? (The answer should almost always be no.)
3. How do you seal holes in stucco or wood?
4. Where will the controller and power supply go, and how will wires be hidden?
5. Is the outlet you plan to use on a GFCI-protected circuit?
6. How will it look from the street in daylight? Can I see photos of a similar roof?
7. What workmanship warranty do you give on the mounting, and is it in writing?
8. If I re-roof or repaint later, how does the system come off and go back on?

Send us a few photos of your roofline and we'll tell you how we'd approach it.